By Tom Chesshyre
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Extra info for Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 MPH
Example text
It’s got stunning galleries and sleepy cafes and lovely old squares. It’s got terrific lakes that feel as though they’re deep in the countryside, even though they’re right by the centre of town and the station. 42 DIJON: ‘KIR ROYALES WITH THE DUKES’ We swim out through the fresh cool water to a platform and lie in the sunshine. What a perfect way to relax before the journey ahead. This afternoon we’ll be back in the heart of London, after watching the French landscape zoom by… and we’re looking forward to the ride.
E puts a fifty-cent piece in a tin and lights a little cierge (candle) near the altar. It’s a peaceful spot and it’s strange to think that yesterday around this time we were on our way to St Pancras. Sitting at a table in the sunshine outside a cafe called Le Jacquemart, we look around. There’s still a slow, soporific feel to Dijon; even though it’s midday now there are not really many people about. We drink good coffees bought from a waiter who seems pleased to have tourists (not just locals) as customers, and consult a brochure we picked up at the church entitled Dijon, The Owl’s Trail: Let The Owl Show You The Town!
I had no idea that he had married a woman a third of his age and had quite so many children. I didn’t really know much about him at all… and perhaps never would have if I hadn’t caught the fast trains to Antwerp. But the museum does more than just tell you about Rubens himself. It also conjures up the atmosphere of a time when Antwerp was an incredibly important place of commerce in Europe, said by some to be the richest city on the Continent. From the end of the fifteenth century, when the river Zwin silted up causing the decline of Bruges, Antwerp enjoyed a period of great wealth, becoming a hugely important stop for traders in northern Europe; hence all the grand guildhalls in Grote Markt.
