By Paul Simsa
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Extra resources for Junkers JU-52
Before curing, read the chapter on curing (page 41) and prepare your sculpted pieces according to your choice of body type. Also, refer back to the illustrations on pages 16-17. 2. Wigging: In most cases, simple dolls are wigged by gluing on a purchased doll wig. As you become more specialized in your doll characters, you might wish to try rooting hair into the clay. Depending on the material, this can usually be done before curing. Experiment. You might also want to consider making the holes for rooting after curing.
I notice that many of these artists also complain about cracks, browning, and crumbling. Is there a connection? Very possibly. I recommend that you complete your sculpture as much as you can before curing. Use the add-on and recook process only to repair or make necessary changes. CURING RECIPES Dollmakers are fairly cautious souls. They generally vary from the box instructions only on the side of less risk: lower temperatures and longer times. Most indicate that this makes them feel their cured pieces will reach a maximum cure strength with less cracking and the least likelihood of browning.
If you must touch, use a pot holder or oven mitt. Allowing pieces to cool in the oven as the heat is slowly dissipated also prevents the cracking that could happen in going from hot oven to cooler outside air. If the pieces are still soft and crumbly (test on the inside of head or neck) when they are totally cooled, you can re-cook them. Follow the same procedure: 15 minutes with the oven on, then cooling in the oven. Larger pieces, heads 3" in diameter and more, can be cooked for an initially longer period.